Engagement Rings
Asscher Cut engagement rings.
The Asscher cut diamond engagement ring is a captivating blend of art deco heritage and mesmerising geometric beauty. Invented in 1902 by the renowned diamond cutter Joseph Asscher in Amsterdam, this square step-cut diamond features a deep pavilion and high crown that produce a distinctive windmill pattern when viewed from above. Its concentric square facets draw the eye into the heart of the stone, creating a hypnotic hall-of-mirrors effect with unmatched depth. The Asscher cut appeals to those who appreciate history, craftsmanship, and understated elegance. Browse our GIA and IGI certified Asscher cut collection, or visit our showrooms for a complimentary consultation.
Buying Guide
Everything you need to know about Asscher cut diamond engagement rings.
The Asscher cut is often described as a square emerald cut, but its higher crown, deeper pavilion, and smaller table give it a more brilliant, three-dimensional light performance. The original Asscher cut featured 58 facets, while the modern Royal Asscher — redesigned by the Asscher family in 2001 — has 74 facets for enhanced brilliance. Like the emerald cut, the Asscher's open step facets reveal inclusions and colour more readily, so we recommend a clarity grade of VS2 or higher and a colour grade of G or better. The ideal length-to-width ratio is between 1.00 and 1.04 for a perfectly square appearance.
What is the difference between an Asscher cut and an emerald cut diamond?
While both are step-cut diamonds, the Asscher is square with a higher crown and deeper pavilion, whereas the emerald cut is rectangular with a shallower profile. The Asscher's proportions create a more dramatic windmill pattern and draw more light into the centre of the stone. The Asscher also has larger, more deeply cut step facets that produce a bolder play of light and dark.
Why is clarity especially important for Asscher cut diamonds?
The Asscher cut's large, open step facets act as windows into the diamond, making inclusions and blemishes far more visible than in brilliant-cut shapes. For this reason, we recommend a minimum clarity grade of VS2, with VS1 or VVS2 being ideal for a flawless appearance. Our diamond specialists can help you find the best clarity-to-value balance for your budget.
What is the history of the Asscher cut and the Asscher family?
The Asscher cut was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam, a firm renowned for cleaving the 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond in 1908. The original Asscher patent expired during World War II, and the family redesigned the cut in 2001 as the Royal Asscher with 74 facets for greater brilliance. The Asscher family remains one of the most respected names in diamond cutting to this day.
What proportions should I look for in an Asscher cut diamond?
An ideal Asscher cut should have a length-to-width ratio between 1.00 and 1.04 for a perfectly square appearance. Look for a table percentage between 60% and 68% and a depth percentage between 61% and 68%. The higher crown and deeper pavilion are what distinguish a true Asscher from a generic square step cut. Visit our showrooms to compare proportions in person.
Why are Asscher cut diamonds associated with vintage style?
The Asscher cut was born during the Art Deco period, and its geometric, symmetrical lines perfectly embody the era's design philosophy. Its windmill pattern and hall-of-mirrors depth evoke the glamour of the 1920s and 1930s, making it the quintessential choice for vintage-inspired engagement rings. Despite its heritage, the Asscher cut feels remarkably modern and continues to captivate contemporary jewellery lovers.
