Princess cut engagement rings,made in Australia.

The princess cut is the second-most-popular diamond shape for engagement rings in Australia. Round brilliant is No. 1 (and will be for another decade). Everything else, oval, cushion, emerald, pear, sits below princess. So princess is the biggest of the "non-round" category. If you want a diamond that is unmistakably modern, unmistakably geometric, and unmistakably not what your mother wore, this is the shape.

Two other reasons couples choose it. First, price per face-up size. The princess cut yields more usable diamond from a raw octahedral rough than a round brilliant, typically 60 to 70% yield versus 40% for a round. That means a 1-carat princess costs roughly 20 to 30% less than a 1-carat round of equivalent quality, and reads larger on the finger. Second, sparkle style. A princess cut throws big, sharp flashes rather than the fine white fire of a round. Some people love that. Some don't.

The princess cut has a tangled origin story that most jewellers get wrong. The truth is it evolved in two stages, forty years apart.

Basil Watermeyer, a South African cutter, developed the Barion cut in 1961, a square modified brilliant with a crushed-ice appearance. This is the diamond most people mean when they say "the princess cut was invented in 1961."

The modern princess cut, the square shape sold today with 57 or 76 facets and the distinctive chevron pattern beneath, was developed by Israeli cutters Betzalel Ambar, Israel Itzkowitz and Ygal Perlman around 1980. It was originally called the "Quadrillion cut" and was patented in 1981. The name "princess cut" came into general use in the 1990s and stuck.

Both cuts share the same design goal, maximum brilliance in a square shape, but the modern princess is the one you buy today. If a jeweller tells you the princess cut is a "1961 invention" they are technically talking about the Barion. It doesn't affect what you're buying. It does tell you how carefully the person selling you the ring knows their history.

A princess cut has either 57 or 76 facets depending on how the pavilion is chevron-cut. That's the biggest technical variable most buyers don't know about.

Look at a princess cut diamond from the side, through the pavilion (the pointed underside). You'll see chevron shapes running from the corners toward the culet. Cutters choose 2, 3, or 4 chevrons per side.

Two chevrons produce larger, contrasting flashes. Fewer facets, bigger sparkles, more "hall of mirrors" look.

Three chevrons are the middle ground, the most common cut.

Four chevrons produce many tiny facets. The sparkle reads more like a "crushed ice" scintillation. Some buyers prefer this. Some find it busy.

Ask your jeweller how many chevrons the diamond has before you buy. Ask to see a two-chevron and a four-chevron side by side. The difference is dramatic and it's a matter of personal taste, not quality. We have both patterns available in our Sydney workshop for viewing.

A princess cut can be perfectly square or slightly rectangular. The length-to-width ratio (L/W) tells you which.

1.00 to 1.05 is a true square. This is what most people picture when they hear "princess cut."

1.05 to 1.10 is subtly rectangular, you may not notice from directly above but will from an angle. Some people prefer this for the elongating effect on the finger.

Above 1.10 starts to look distinctly rectangular. Verges on "radiant cut" territory.

Ask for the L/W ratio on the diamond certificate before you buy. GIA and IGI both report it. If you specifically want a true square, look for 1.00 to 1.03. If you want a subtle finger-lengthening effect, look for 1.05 to 1.10. Anything above should be considered a rectangular princess.

Cut quality matters more in a princess than in almost any other shape, because a poorly cut princess looks dull instead of sparkling. What to look for on the certificate:

Depth: 62 to 74% is the acceptable range. Below 62% and the diamond looks dull; above 74% and light leaks out the bottom. Ideal is 65 to 72%.

Table: 65 to 75% is the acceptable range. This is the flat top facet as a percentage of the overall width. Below 65% the crown angles are too shallow; above 75% and the crown is flat, killing sparkle.

Symmetry and polish: both must be graded Excellent for a princess cut. Very Good is a compromise. Anything lower and you'll see it under a loupe.

Cut grade: GIA does not issue an official "cut grade" for princess cuts (only for rounds). IGI does. Look for "Very Good" or better on an IGI princess cut certificate. On a GIA-graded princess, ask your jeweller to walk you through the depth, table, and symmetry numbers instead, those tell the same story.

Every princess cut we set is inspected against these numbers before it goes into a ring. Our founder personally reviews every centre stone.

This is the most important paragraph on this page.

The princess cut has four sharp 90-degree corners. Each corner is the weakest point on the diamond, the place most vulnerable to chipping if the ring catches on fabric, a bench, a car door.

A well-set princess cut solves this in two ways. First, the metal setting covers each corner with a V-shaped prong (also called a chevron prong) that wraps around the corner rather than sitting flat against it. Second, the diamond is set deep enough into the metal that the corner is recessed and protected.

If you see a princess cut set with a standard round prong sitting at the corner, walk away. That's the setting most likely to result in a chipped diamond within five years. Every princess cut ring we make uses V-prong or chevron-prong corner protection as standard. It's not optional.

If you already own a princess cut ring and aren't sure if the corners are properly protected, bring it to any of our four showrooms and we'll assess it for free.

The princess cut holds colour more visibly than a round brilliant. That means the same diamond colour grade looks warmer in a princess than in a round.

Colour recommendations. In white metal (white gold, platinum), choose F to H for a colourless appearance. Below H and the warm tint will be visible. In yellow gold, you can drop to H to J because the metal absorbs some of the warmth (see our yellow gold guide for the science).

Clarity recommendations. The chevron facet pattern beneath a princess cut hides small inclusions well in the centre of the diamond. But inclusions near the corners are exposed by the V-prong setting and are more visible. Aim for SI1 or better on the certificate, and ask your jeweller to specifically check corner-area inclusions before you commit. VS2 or better is the safe choice if budget allows.

This is a matter of matching the diamond to the setting. We check every stone against its intended setting before we cut, set, or ship.

Buyers considering a princess cut usually cross-shop against three or four other shapes. Here's the honest comparison.

Princess vs round brilliant. Round has more overall sparkle and hides colour better. Princess is 20 to 30% cheaper per face-up size, reads more modern, and is dramatically different. If you want maximum sparkle, choose round. If you want modern geometry, choose princess.

Princess vs cushion. Cushion has softer, rounded corners and an older, more romantic feel. Princess is sharper, more contemporary, and has more distinct facet flashes. Cushion hides inclusions and colour better; princess shows more of both. Cushion for vintage, princess for modern.

Princess vs asscher. Both are square, but asscher is a step cut (concentric flat facets like emerald cut) rather than a brilliant cut. Asscher has hall-of-mirrors flashes rather than sparkle. Asscher demands VVS clarity or better because inclusions are extremely visible. Princess is more forgiving on clarity. Different aesthetics entirely.

Princess vs radiant. Radiant is a rectangular brilliant cut with cropped (chevron-like) corners. Radiant sparkles more than princess because the cropped corners are cut, not sharp. Radiant is safer to wear (no chip risk). But princess reads cleaner, more geometric, more architectural. Radiant for the safety-conscious active wearer; princess for the design purist.

Solitaire with a V-prong setting is the truest princess cut expression. Modern, uncluttered, corner-protected. If you're not sure, this is the safe choice.

Halo and hidden halo. A halo of small round diamonds around the princess softens the sharp corners visually while adding sparkle. This is our most popular custom request for princess cuts and it flatters almost every hand.

Three stone (trilogy). Princess centre with two round or princess side stones. Reads distinctly modern. The three-stone princess is having a moment right now.

Bezel and half-bezel. The metal fully surrounds the princess corners, giving maximum protection and a distinctly architectural look. Best choice for anyone with an active lifestyle.

Channel-set band with princess centre. A trend from the 2000s that's coming back. Sharp princess flanked by channel-set smaller princesses in the band.

The sharp geometry of a princess cut can read cold in cool metals (white gold, platinum) and slightly discordant in warm metals (yellow gold, rose gold) unless the setting is chosen carefully.

White gold and platinum are the safe defaults. Sharp geometry meets cool metal. Classical, uncomplicated.

Yellow gold works but requires thought. The warm metal against sharp square corners can feel unbalanced without softening. Two solutions: a halo around the princess (softens visually), or a bezel setting (integrates the corner into the band). Full-yellow-gold princess solitaires with V-prongs look distinctly retro, which some people love and some don't. Try it in person before deciding.

Rose gold works particularly well with princess in three-stone or halo designs. The pink tone softens the sharpness in a way pure yellow doesn't.

Two-tone, yellow gold band with white gold or platinum V-prongs holding the princess, is one of our most-requested custom builds. Best of both worlds.

A princess engagement ring pairs beautifully with several wedding band styles:

Plain solid band in matching metal, the classic minimalist pairing. Lets the princess stone speak.

Tapered channel-set band, small round diamonds tapered toward the engagement ring. Sits flush and elevates the whole set.

Contour band designed to hug the princess setting, sits perfectly flush with no gap. Requires custom or matched design.

Baguette-set eternity band, small rectangular baguette diamonds echo the geometric feel of the princess. Distinctly Art Deco.

Diamond half-eternity in channel setting, smaller princess or round diamonds in a channel, sits comfortably beside the engagement ring.

We custom-design wedding bands to match every engagement ring we make. Bring your finished engagement ring to any of our four showrooms and our master jeweller will design a matching band to sit flush against it.